Stick & Signal.

Renter guide

Mounting on Brick or Stucco Without Drilling

Adhesive does not stick to brick, and every no-drill guide skips this. The clips and workarounds that actually hold.

By Stephen V.Updated How we pick

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Every no-drill guide on the internet, including ours until now, does the same thing: it explains the adhesive method carefully, then adds a line noting that brick and rough stucco are “not ideal”, and moves on. If your entry happens to be brick, that line is the whole page, and the advice you needed stops exactly where your problem starts.

So let us be direct about it. Adhesive does not work on brick. Not poorly, not with a stronger tape — it does not work. Adhesive bonds by making continuous contact with a smooth surface and flowing into its microscopic texture. Brick is porous, uneven, usually dusty, and often has a loose surface layer of its own. A pad pressed against it touches a fraction of its area, and whatever it does bond to is surface material that is not itself firmly attached to anything. Ring publishes brick, shingles and rough stucco as surfaces that weaken the bond, and that is the manufacturer being polite.

The good news: there is a proper answer, it costs less than the adhesive would have, and it is more reversible than any tape on the market.

Brick clips: the actual solution

Brick clips are sprung steel hooks that grip one brick, top edge and bottom edge, using the small step where the brick face stands proud of the mortar joint. You push one on by hand and the spring holds it there. Nothing is drilled. Nothing is glued. Removal is a hand pull, and the brick is left precisely as you found it.

Weight is not the constraint people expect: the clips we link publish a 25 lb hold, and a video doorbell weighs a few ounces. Two facts decide whether they will work for you, and both take a minute to check before you order.

1. Measure a brick

Clips are made in size ranges — the arms have to span your brick’s height from the mortar line below it to the mortar line above. Measure one on the actual wall. Brick sizes vary by region and by era, and a clip a quarter-inch out of range will not go on at all. This is the whole reason people leave one-star reviews on brick clips, and it is a measuring problem rather than a product problem.

2. Look at your pointing

The clip needs an edge to hook. If the mortar in your wall is raked back or flush enough that the brick face stands slightly proud, you are fine. If the pointing has been overfilled so the mortar sits level with or over the brick face — common on repointed older buildings — there is no step for the arms to grip and clips are not an option. Look at the wall in raking light and you will see it immediately.

Pick a brick at roughly chest height for a doorbell, or higher for a camera, and hold the device there to check the view before you fit anything. The clip is easy to move, but it is still easier not to have to.

What we would not do: mortar hangers

Hangers that hook into a raked mortar joint exist and they do hold. We are deliberately not recommending them for a rental, for one reason that has nothing to do with strength: mortar is much softer than brick, and a hanger loaded against a joint can crumble it. That leaves a small permanent scar in the pointing — exactly the sort of thing a landlord notices and exactly the sort of thing that is awkward to argue about, because unlike an adhesive mark you cannot simply clean it off. A clip that spreads its pressure across a brick face cuts into nothing. Between two methods that both work, take the one that leaves no evidence.

Stucco is two different problems

People use one word for two surfaces, and the answer differs.

Smooth, sealed stucco — the modern flat-finish kind — can sometimes take a good adhesive pad. Test it honestly: run a hand over it, and if it feels like a painted wall rather than like sandpaper, prep it with alcohol and try. Use a product with a published weight rating so you know what margin you have.

Textured or rough-cast stucco is a no on both counts. Adhesive cannot make contact with it, and clips have no edges to grip. This is the one surface in this whole category with no direct answer, and pretending otherwise would be the easy thing to write. What you do instead is stop trying to mount to that wall.

The two workarounds, which are often the better outcome

Relocate to a smooth surface you have overlooked. The brick wall is rarely the only option. Almost every entry has something smooth within a couple of feet: a metal or uPVC door frame edge, the painted door itself, a sidelight, a mailbox post, a column, a light fitting surround. A doorbell eighteen inches from where you first pictured it works identically. On a truly smooth non-porous surface like metal or uPVC, a permanent industrial tape is a legitimate choice in a way it never is on painted drywall — the surface can take the removal. That is the one place we would use it, and we still rate it Limited for renters because removal is genuinely hard.

Use a hole that already exists. If your apartment door has a peephole, this is not a workaround at all — it is the most reversible install available to a renter, full stop. A peephole camera unscrews the original viewer and drops into the same hole, and at move-out you refit the original. No wall involved, brick or otherwise. Put the original peephole in a drawer the day you take it out.

And if the answer is genuinely nothing

Occasionally there is no exterior option: rough stucco everywhere, no peephole, no smooth surface. That is worth naming rather than dancing around, because there is still a good move available, and it is to give up on the exterior entirely. A camera indoors looking out through a window is zero-install, immune to weather, and covers the approach to your door — see cameras pointed out a window. Combined with an adhesive door alarm on the inside of the door, which sticks to a smooth painted surface without any of the problems above, you get most of the benefit with none of the masonry. Our apartment security kit is built around exactly that logic.

One last note on permission. Attaching anything to the exterior masonry of a building is the case where asking your landlord in writing is genuinely worth the email — not because a clip does damage, but because the exterior is the part of the property other people see, and some leases say so specifically. A one-line request describing a clip that leaves no mark is very easy to say yes to.

The gear this guide points to

#1The actual answer for brickLease-Safe: Excellent

Generic Brick Clips, No-Drill Hangers (4-pack, 25 lb)

The answer to the one question the adhesive guides never answer: what do you do when the wall is brick. These are sprung steel clips that grip the top and bottom edge of a single brick — no drilling, no anchors, no tape — and the listing rates them at 25 lb. They only work if your brick course falls inside the clip's size range, so measure a brick before you order.

What we like

  • Solves brick, the surface where every adhesive method genuinely fails
  • Listing publishes a 25 lb hold — far more than any doorbell or camera needs
  • Comes off by hand, leaving no residue and no hole at all

Trade-offs

  • Fits a specific brick height range only — the wrong size simply will not clip on
  • Grips the brick face, not the mortar, so it is useless on flush or recessed pointing
  • You will still need a bracket or plate to attach the device to the clip
Installs bySprung steel clip that grips a single brick's top and bottom edge (no drilling, no adhesive)
PowerNone (passive clip)
SubscriptionNot required
ConnectivityNot published
Rated hold25 lb per listing
Pack4 clips (listing)

Lease-Safe: Excellent. It is the most reversible mount on the whole site: nothing is drilled, nothing is glued, and removal is a hand pull that leaves the brick exactly as it was. On a brick rental it beats every adhesive option outright.

Spec note. The retail listing publishes a 4-pack and a 25 lb hold. Brick clips are size-specific by design; the listing's stated brick range is the fit constraint, and we tell readers to measure rather than assume.

Specs read from the product listing, on September 6, 2026. “Not published” means the brand does not state that figure.

#2The no-wall route: use the hole you haveLease-Safe: Excellent

Cawhun Peephole Camera with 4.3" Screen

The most genuinely renter-proof way to get a smart view of your hallway: it drops into the peephole hole your door already has. No new holes, no adhesive on the frame — and at move-out you put the old peephole back.

What we like

  • Uses the existing peephole hole — zero new holes in the door
  • Interior screen plus app viewing
  • Fully reversible: swap your original peephole back in

Trade-offs

  • Only works if your door already has a peephole of a compatible size
  • Off-brand app and support versus Ring/eufy
Installs byReplaces an existing door peephole (no drilling)
PowerRechargeable battery
SubscriptionNot required
Connectivity2.4GHz Wi-Fi
InstallExisting peephole (reversible)
StoragemicroSD (local)

Lease-Safe: Excellent. It reuses the hole your door already has. Nothing is drilled and nothing is glued to the frame; keep your original peephole to reinstall on move-out. This is as deposit-safe as a door camera gets.

Spec note. A peephole-replacement camera. Confirm your door's peephole barrel diameter and door thickness against the listing before buying.

Specs read from the product listing, on July 25, 2026. “Not published” means the brand does not state that figure.

#3Only for smooth metal or uPVC nearbyLease-Safe: Limited

3M VHB Heavy Duty Mounting Tape 5952 (0.75 in x 5 yd)

The strongest adhesive here and the one to think hardest about. VHB is what holds trim onto cars — it will hold a doorbell on a smooth exterior frame through a winter. It is also close to permanent, so we would put it on metal, uPVC or a glossy sealed frame and never on painted drywall in a rental you want your deposit back from.

What we like

  • By far the strongest bond of any adhesive on this site
  • Rated by 3M for outdoor use, unlike indoor picture-hanging strips
  • A single roll outlasts several installs

Trade-offs

  • Removal is genuinely difficult — expect fishing line, heat and adhesive remover
  • Wrong choice on painted drywall or any painted interior wall in a rental
  • Not a damage-free product and we do not present it as one
Installs byDouble-sided acrylic foam tape, cut to length; permanent-intent bond
PowerNone (adhesive)
SubscriptionNot required
ConnectivityNot published
Grade3M VHB 5952 (listing)
Roll0.75 in x 5 yd (listing)

Lease-Safe: Limited. Rated Limited on purpose, and it is the only mounting product on the site that is. The bond is designed not to let go, so on a painted surface the realistic outcome is lifted paint. It earns its place only on metal, uPVC or sealed exterior trim, where the surface can take the removal.

Spec note. The retail listing publishes 5952 as the tape grade and 0.75 in x 5 yd per roll. 3M markets VHB for exterior and industrial bonding. We rate it Limited for renters despite that strength — the reason is removal, not hold.

Specs read from the product listing, on September 6, 2026. “Not published” means the brand does not state that figure.

General information, not legal advice. Laws and lease terms vary by state and by building. Read your actual lease, check your state’s landlord-tenant law, and when it matters, ask your landlord in writing before you install anything.

Frequently asked questions

Will Command strips or adhesive mounts stick to brick?

No, and this is one of the few places we will give a flat answer rather than a qualified one. Adhesive works by making continuous contact with a smooth surface; brick is porous, uneven and often dusty, so a pad touches a fraction of its area and bonds to loose surface material rather than to the brick. Ring's own guidance names brick as a surface that weakens the bond. Treat it as a no, not a maybe.

How do brick clips work?

They are sprung steel hooks that grip the top and bottom edge of one brick, using the small step where the brick face stands proud of the mortar. You push the clip on by hand and the spring holds it. Nothing is drilled, nothing is glued, and removal is a hand pull that leaves the brick exactly as it was — which makes them the most reversible mount on this entire site.

Do brick clips fit all bricks?

No. They are made in size ranges, and the range has to match the height of your brick from mortar line to mortar line. Measure one before you order. They also need the brick face to stand slightly proud of the mortar: if your wall has flush or overfilled pointing, the arms have nothing to hook onto and clips are not an option.

What about stucco?

Smooth, sealed, freshly finished stucco can sometimes take a good adhesive pad. Textured or rough-cast stucco cannot, for the same contact-area reason as brick, and clips do not work on it either because there are no edges to grip. On rough stucco the realistic answers are relocating to a smooth surface nearby or using a hole that already exists — which is genuinely the better outcome, not a consolation prize.

Can I mount into the mortar line instead of the brick?

Mortar hangers exist and they hook into a raked mortar joint. We are cautious about recommending them in a rental for one reason: mortar is softer than brick, and a hanger that bites into a joint can crumble it, which is the kind of small permanent mark a landlord would notice. A clip that grips a brick face applies pressure without cutting anything, so it is the safer of the two.

My whole entry is brick. Is there anything else?

Two things, and both are often better than fighting the wall. First, look for a smooth surface you have overlooked — a metal or uPVC door frame edge, a painted door, a sidelight, a mailbox post. Second, if your door has a peephole, a peephole camera uses a hole that already exists, needs no wall at all, and is reversed at move-out by refitting the original viewer.

Sources

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